A bit a ‘istory!

TORROX: the only place I want to live

The pueblo (village) I discovered in 1992 has changed in the last few years and has reached the title of ‘small town’ BUT up in the older part of the village you can still find the old pueblo with its old streets, its hidden secrets and its mysticism.

The coastal image of The Costa del Sol often overshadows the fact that just a couple of miles inland are the white villages of Spain’s other world. Torrox, in mind opinion, is a little gem, in that unlike its neighbouring villages of Competa and Frigiliana, it is still a working class village which retains its links to an old, though disappearing way of life. With its wonderful history, fantastic views, hidden corners Torrox is the only place I want to live.

There is a rich and varied history belonging to Torrox, although it did not become a recognizable entity until after the reconquest around 1487, when the village, like many others, surrendered to the Christians. Torrox at this time was made up of various farming areas situated around its castle (and you can find one of its torrents being used now as The Tourist Information Office situated in Calle Baja)

Torrox had a reputation many centuries ago for its silk production. This is going back before 1487 to the time when the Muslims, who were master silk producers, controlled the area.  There were dozens of silk farms in and around Torrox and as silk worms need food, the terraces one can still see today, were covered with Mulberry trees.  These were extremely difficult to cultivate and eventually they died out along with the demise of Muslim culture in general. However, when silk production was at its highest, the women of the village made anything you could image being produced from silk and their products were said to be of the finest quality and commanded high prices.  The terraces are still being productive to this day, but instead of Mulberry trees you see olive trees.

The three great silk centers of the world during the 12^th to the 15^th centuries were Baghdad, Damascus and Torrox….not bad company for my little pueblo! And the center of the silk trade in Torrox was the Paseo de las Moreras, morera meaning Mulberry tree in Spanish. The Paseo is still a popular spot on Torrox today.

Torrox has witnessed many variations in population due to regular calamities and disease.  Yellow fever broke out during the first 10 years of the 19^th century, wiping out more than 30% of the population. A series of 25 earthquakes within three hours on December 26, 1884 killed a quarter of the population.  Within months of this devastation, King Alphonso XII came to visit the village and stayed during his time in Torrox in the Casa de la Hoya which still stands in the main square today.

There are a series of mosaics around the older part of the village, depicting the history and lifestyle of those bygone times and amongst the historical highlights are the church of San Roque and the Hermitage of the Virgin of the Snows (reported to be the birthplace of Almanzor, who held high office under Caliph Al-Hakim). Almanzor actually made himself ‘hijib, taking on both the trappings and power of Caliph himself, keeping the official and nominal Caliph isolated, and becoming effectively the ruler of Muslim Spain from 978 to 1002. He fought many battles against the Christians, leading victorious campaigns both in 982 and 984 and mainly transforming the role of Caliph for ever.  There is a large bust of Almanzor in the main square of the village.

Torrox also saw some of the brutal times of the Inquisition which officially lasted from 1480 until 1834, when neighbours were encouraged to spy on neighbours mainly for the crimes of heresy, blasphemy, non Christian activities and adultery, with 99% of people being found guilty and where common punishments ranged from whippings, beatings, hanging and burning. A popular one being skinned alive and dipped in brine. Believe it or not, it is reported that about 70% lived through various degrees of ‘purification’ and it was all done in any case in the name of ‘pure blood’

Christopher Columbus engaged another citizen of Torrox to travel with him on his journeys, one Luis de Torres.  Luis de Torres was engaged as a linguist, being fluent in Arabic, Hebrew, Chaldean, Spanish, Portuguese, French and Latin. Word has it that he was a Jew, or rather a “Maranao’ (damned Jew), who to escape persecution at the hands of the Inquisition converted to Christianity (but at heart remained faithfully to the Jewish faith) In 1492 Ferdinand and Isobella commanded that everyone accepted Christianity or be expelled from Spain and Luis de Torres converted on August 2^nd 1942, the day before he set sail with Columbus.

When Columbus reached Cuba, he sent Luis de Torres on a mission to try and find the leader known as ‘the great Khan of Tartany’ and so it was that de Torres headed the first overland expedition in the new world.  Luis de Torres reported on a native custom of a burning leaf being put in the nostril and of inhaling the vapors, thus becoming the first European to smoke tobacco. He fell in love with the island of Cuba and asked to stay there, where he was named as the Royal Agent, married the daughters of many different local chiefs and lived a long and happy life as the first European settler in the new world, a native of Torrox.

So, that’s a little of the history of the area of Torrox, but what of now?.  Well, life goes on and like most other Andalucians, the citizens of Torrox love a good fiesta and there are many of them held throughout the year. The traditional Easter celebrations are celebrated in an appropriate somber mood, the other festivals are celebrated with gusto, good food and the local well known wine.  Strangers to the village are encouraged to partake of the local produce, but believe me be very aware of the wine. It is lovely and well worth a try, but it certainly has a ‘kick’ which if too much isdrunk it hits you the next morning!

Please come and visit this lovely part of Spain, where you will find its hidden corners and secrets, its friendly people, its beautiful weather and peace and quiet.